Lace It Up!

Today I went to Brixton to buy some lace fabric to make the vest top and short sleeve t-shirt. I only managed to get the black lace fabric (for the vest top), as I couldn't find the right colour. So I have to keep on searching for the right colour.
I like this flower lace, as I still wanted to have some flowers some where in my collection with out being too obvious, as flowers are really big in the Caribbean especially in the home as i have read from my research..

On a good note, the MA craft student I am collaborating with on the hat emailed me today with the final image of the finished hat and I love it! it looks interesting and different. I am glad we decided to make the hat black instead of using a bright colour as the black will go with my garments better. 

I showed the picture to my dad and my little sister and they love it, they think it looks unique and very interesting!!

Slowly I am getting things together.

Last Day II

Today I had to go up to Nottingham to get some last minute things done, before the university closes for the holiday.

When I got to uni, Karen was back from her holiday so luckily I managed to get the button holes done for my waist coat and knitted sweater/shirt. I was really excited as that meant less work for me to do when I get back in September and I can have these garments finished for the photo-shoot.

I bought some buttons for my waist coat but once I served them on, I didn't like them, I thought they were too shiny and the yellow was a bit too much on the lemon side.(insert pic). I also brought buttons for the red shirt which I love; they are a maroon/black clear colour but as I look at them, I think they might be too big.

Also today I met up with Ruth the tailor who was sewing my men’s trousers to collect them. Hopefully they fit really well.

I came home to try them on my model and the blue ones fit well but I think I might have to stitch the back pockets are open when they are on. I am not sure if I like them but maybe with time they might grow on me.

I love the colour of the fabric in this picture!

Next was the high waist red trouser, they looked really good and I loved the fabric but my model could not get foot in as the cuff was too small. The model and I struggled for about 10 minutes to get the trousers over one foot then another 20 minutes to get it off the same foot. I tried it on another model but had the same problem.

I know I have to make some adjustments before the photo-shoot or the EXPO. I was really disappointed because I paid money for the trousers to be made so I expected them to come out right, duhhh that’s what I paid for.

Another setback or should I say disappointment was with the MA craft student who I am collaborating with to make a big brim hat for my collection. I think she started it the night before and because the weather has changed (no more sun), the resin did not set over night which meant the hat was still fragile. So I couldn't take it with me back home.

                                                          

This is an image she sent me

I love it so far, I think it will look really cool and interesting when it is done. Hopefully I can have it ready for the shoot.

I managed to knit two sandwich trims for the green jumper but didn't manage to link them to the garment. Hopefully I can link it on the holidays or mend it back in September but for now I might try to mend it or tack it for the photo-shoot.

Overall I still have a lot of work to do to be ready for the EXPO. It’s only God that can help me so I have to get on and cracking.

Trial and Errors

On Friday, I collected the trouser toile off the tailor to do a fitting with my model back in London, since he was not available to come down to Nottingham.

On Saturday morning the model tried on both pairs and they both fit quite well but they needed a few adjustments here and there.

The low waist trousers which will be made in the blue fabric didn't need much adjustments, just the back pocket needed to be dropped 4 cm and some belt loops needed to be added on.

With the high waist ones, I thought the bottom of the trousers needed to be tapered slightly and the trousers needed to be a bit bigger. But overall they were both good. I liked them.

I also made my model try on the other garments that I had finished and they fit well but when trying on the green maggot jumper I heard a rip (heart attack). I then found out that my sandwich trim (which took me forever to master, sadly) had started to come off.

So hopefully I can make new trims on Wednesday when I go in and link them back on.

Its a wrap!!

Today is the last day for me to finish off my work. I have one more garment to finish off. Surprisingly I knew that I will get everything done. Yesterday was so frustrating; the whole day was dedicated to the shirt collar. I finally managed to get the sample right but once I tried to start my actually piece, the machine kept messing up on me. Yesterday I was telling Lin about how the machine kept messing up on me,so Lin being the genius that she is tried the machine but once she saw it wasn't working, she changed machines and WHALA It worked. I managed to get my collar done to the perfect size. By 3 pm I was done!! Whoop Whoop!!

Now all that is left is for me to make one lace vest top and one lace t-shirt over the holidays

The work is not finished yet.

Keep pushing even when Frustrated!

Today has been so frustrating. I dedicated the whole day to my red knitted garment (which I’m not really sure I like). I have never knitted a collar before even a sandwich trim; this whole experience being on the MA has taught me a lot knit wise and personal. Things that I have never done before, I found myself in a position where I had no choice but to learn very quickly. Which has been so frustrating but I still did them which I am very happy with. I'm not happy with some of my garments (I am always hard on myself, I know!). I started on the 7 gauge machine but once I knitted the collar I realised that it was too loose so I moved onto a 10 gauge and that was perfect for the collar. But the knitting kept falling off so I gave up and decided I will try it tomorrow.

I have furthered my knowledge in Knitwear, which I'm really happy about as this is the whole point of doing an MA. Even though the MA hasn't been the most enjoyable at times but I can say at the end I have learned a lot.

Things did not go to plan for me today but throughout this course I've learnt that nothing ever goes to plan so I always have to pray, stay calm and be patient. That has become my motto throughout this year.

Today was a Good day!

I am so excited!! When I started this course I was really nervous about sing the dubied machines because at my old university we were not allowed to use the machine because there was only two of them so the technician use to do any trims for us. The only time I did my own ribs was when I did my ribs for my final collection. So I have basic knowledge of the machine but I am not that confident on them. But today I managed to get my trims done for my green jumper, under pressure you learn quickly. Finally I finished off my green jumper, (happy dance). I also managed to link on my strapping to the yellow waist coat.

Today has been a productive day.

Autumn/Winter 14/15 Knitwear Trends Forecast

I don’t know why I do this to myself at times. This week is our last week before we break up for our summer holidays and I have so much work to complete by then.

Today is the knitwear trends presentation at Designer Forum. When I booked my ticket for this event about three weeks ago, I completely forgot that it was the last week of uni, I think I was seduced by the price (£5.00)for students, plus because it was for knitwear trends A/W 14/15 which is the same season as my collection.

Even though I was hesitant to go on the day, deep down I knew that there might be something at the event that could help me with my project and it’s good to go to events like these, to network with different people in the industry. So I slowly dragged myself away from my work and went.

At the event Design Forum presented four trend prediction boards for 2014/15 before Pitti Filati. They had:

Conditions:
·         Mixture of science and nature
·         Environmental refuge
·         Future environmental tribe
·         Protecting nature but with new technology with an artist feel
·         Natural colours mixed with nuclear brights
·         Marble- surfaces-texture

Escape:
·         Technology in our life (trying to get away from it)
·         New World discovery
·         Space travel-technology
·         Exploring new things and places
·         New Spirituality
·         Cosmic Karma
·         Playful, adult playground, toys for adults
·         Geometric
·         Oversize properties
·         Playing with light

Silence:
·         Escaping the digital world
·         Big Brother watching you, No privacy
·         Rejection of technology
·         Protect one’s self
·         Armour shapes
·         Shell of the beetle
·         Mask
·         Chains
·         Oversize
·         A place to hide
·         Finding beauty in perfection

Heritage and Vintage:
·         Celebration of artisan skills
·         Old and New
·         Modern and traditional
·         Russia and Eastern Europe
·         Embellished
·         Adorned
·         Gold
·         Influenced by Churches

I enjoyed their presentation and it also made me think what trends my collection fits in with. Overall I think my work fits in best with escapism and the heritage and vintage trends.

After Design Forum, Mary Corcoran (Pitti Filati) started her presentation. This was very detailed and informative as there were loads of visuals, which I liked.

Even though I enjoyed hearing about women’s wear trends (because I am a girl). I wanted to hear about the men’s trends that were coming forth to see if there was anything similar in my work. To my satisfaction there were a few boxes I can tick off, for example:
·         Menswear embracing colour
·         Knitwear as a form of tailoring
·         Argon sweaters
·         Texture
·         Knitting that could pass off as fabric
·         Oversized shapes

Overall it was a good event and I learned a lot but it’s a shame I couldn’t show you any images from the presentation, here are some pictures I took from the event, enjoy!

Here are a few other trends that she mentioned:

Menswear
·         Early 90’s boxy square shoulders
·         Longer body length
·         Nirvana, grungy/punk influence
·         More Manly
·         Knitwear the new jacket
·         Chunky knit under tailoring
·         Contrast of casual VS tailoring
·         Granddad cool
·         Geek chic shapes
·         Menswear embracing colour
·         Folk
·         Tribal
·         Bohemian
·         Aran sweaters

Key Yarns
·         Bouclé yarn is back- adds texture (Chanel  use in Jackets)
·         Space Dye- Printed yarn
·         Yarns with metallic, shimmer-
·         Glamorous- viscous- evening
·         Riot knits-crazy knits
·         High pile of sheep skin
·         Anti-Fur- Knitwear is the solution
·       Devore  for knitwear

Key textures and Stitches
·         Jacquard- monochrome and Fair Isle
·         Intarsia
·         Reversible fabrics
·         Lace fabrics
·         Knit as woven- knitting that looks like fabric- Big trend for menswear

New ideas
·         Piling
·         Glow in the dark yarn- younger market
·         Edward canon

Shapes Environment
·         Shapes oversized
·         Layering
·         Capes
·         Ponchos
 

Two Down Three To Go!

Slowly but surely I am getting there. I have nearly finished with this garment but I have made a mistake with the neckline. I wanted a 3x3 oversize neck but I miss calculated the size of the neck. So when I linked it on, I still had extra rib on (silly me). So I had to unravel it all off then go and ask Simon if he could knit me a new rib, this time I took off 8 stitches. I also cut the neck wider so all the rib could go on.

I was not happy that I made a mistake, but you learn and correct then as you go along.

At times I really like my garment and at time I not a fan of it, but hey you live and learn.

On to the next I go.

Still at work

Making trim decisions can be one of the hardest things at times, especially when you’re not sure how your garment will look at the end. With much thought and how I pictured my collection, I decided I wanted a big oversized 3x3 roll collar. I was not sure on the collar but I think black will work the best as the elastic in the garment is black and it adds some detail to the garment. 

To test out how the trim will look on the garment, I put the garment on and wrapped the trim around my neck and Lin took a picture of it.

It doesn't look too bad but we will have to wait and see when it’s all done.

Also I put on the waist coat to see how it would fit and to see if the shirt colour will look good with it. When I knitted the garment, I could not find the original colour that I used for my colour (it had been discontinued). I used a different colour, and it doesn't look too bad, you just got to make things work at times. That's what I have done throughout this course.

Making Up

I am so happy with myself ( lol not to sound big headed or anything). Today I started making my oversized maggot jumper. In the beginning I was not confident because I didn't have anybody around I could constantly ask for help. With my first garment that I made, I had Helen(My tutor and knit lecture)with me so, every step that I took Helen was there to help me. But this time I was by myself, just me myself and I.

I started off shaky but once I spoke to Karen (the technician), got some direction on what I should do, went away and did it. At the end it came out pretty well. I feel I could do it better next time (if there is a next time).

In the image I traced my pattern using tailors chalk, I then did a stay stitch around the drawn pattern then I cut it out. It all sounds really easy but when it’s the first time, you have ever done anything like this, you become nervous because you’re thinking ‘what if I make a mistake’ I've ruined the fabric and because of time, I can’t make the fabric again.

Thank the Lord, it all went well and I can continue to finish the garment.

Finally!

FINALLY, I have started this (big) maggot jumper, with so many delays and setbacks it is actually getting done today. On the plus side I was able to get the fabric width I desired.

When I did my pattern, Simon and I was worried that my pattern will end up being too small as there is elastic in the garment and once the fabric is steamed, it shrinks dramatically. So before we knitted my final fabric, I had to have a backup plan just in case the fabric was too small.

Luckily once I measured my pattern and my sample knitted fabric, it just about fit on the machine.

I was also worried that the yellow yarn I was using would run out as that was the only cone left at the shop (Uppingham Yarns) but I managed to get the front back and the two sleeves done. 

5 Gauge Knitting machine

Fabric before it is steamed

On the same day, I managed to also knit my waist coat fabric on the 14 gauge machine. It did not necessarily come out the way because the pattern on the fabric was different to how originally designed. I didn't notice till the first piece was knitted and steamed.

I was a bit upset at first because when things don’t go the way you want and it is not necessarily your fault, it’s a bit upsetting.

Last Friday I didn't have a cad session with cad technician, because he phoned in ill on the day. So I was waiting around, till one of the teachers my cad session was cancelled. This was very annoying as I this was my last day in Nottingham before I started to commute to university from home (London).

I think that this was one of the main reasons why the pattern came out wrong because it was kind of rushed.

Hopefully it all comes out fine and looks good.

Different colour, yarns and Maggot 2

These past two days, I have really been experimenting with different yarns to try on my previous knitted samples, to see if I can come up with interesting textures and also to see if they look any different. Again I used the 5 gauge machine.

So to test out if the machine was working, Simon and I did this sample. Instead of using the black elastic, I decided to use white to see how it would look also I tried a much more stronger elastic to see if the effect would be any different.

And this is the sample.

I don’t like it because it is very stiff but that might be down to the wool yarn. In the future I think I might just stick to a cotton yarn or softer feeling wool. Also you can’t see the white elastic. To me this is less effective than the black elastic but on the plus side the maggot shapes is very visible.

The next sample is a peach and grey coloured textured yarn; this is one of my least favourites. It looks horrible and raggedy plus the colour does not go with my collection. You can’t see the white elastic.

Here is another sample that I dislike, I don’t like the colour or the texture of the yarn but I must admit that the velvety feel feels very soft against the skin. This time you can see the white elastic clearly and I don’t like the effect it gives it.

I tried this green viscose yarn and it was horrible, it was stiff and very ruff against the skin. Once it was steam pressed, it was a bit smother but still ruff.

Blister Jacquard

Moving on I tried this green viscose yarn. I did the same blister technique and I'm not 100 per cent on how it came out. I don’t think it’s bad but I don’t think it is good either. Unsatisfied I tried using the same pattern but I turned it into a reversible jacquard. Again I disliked this sample. It just seemed a bit too much on the eye. I think it is the combination of the colours or the texture. I am not really sure but Simon liked both samples the blister and the jacquard and Phil liked the blister. I don’t think I will use this sample but it was interesting to see what different yarns could achieve.

Reversible Jacquard

This is a mohair sample that I tried. I am not quite sure I like it, and it wasn't as thick as the other samples, it was quite light weight which I did not like.

I tried this soft cotton green yarn, I didn't like it because I think the colour dose not suit this kind of technique plus the yarn is too thin, which makes the knitted fabric very light and quite flimsy. 

I went back to the black elastic and tried this yellow yarn. I like the effect of the black elastic because it gives it that decay look bot I don’t like the colour of the wool yarn.

This is by far my favourite sample of the day. Originally I did a few samples that were beige but I still wanted to add some colour in there to make it stand out and to fit with my other knitted samples for my collection. I think this yarn works the best also I love the black elastic against the beige and (hint of) yellow entwined with each other. It gives it more of the decay look that I am going for. I think I am going to use this sample as part of my collection.

GFW

These are images from this years Graduate Fashion week. I wasn't able to go but my friend and class mate Lin went and took these pictures for me. I love them, some are very similar to my garments for my project, while others are just interesting to look at. I love seeing the BA students work as I feel it's always so creative. They design more freely and less commercial at times.

One university that I always look forward to seeing there work is the university of  

Birmingham. their shows for me are always interesting and the clothes are different to what other universities are doing. The menswear has a fun youthful vibe about it which I enjoy very much.

 

Here are a few images, I hope you enjoy.

Collaboration Inspitartion

These are some quick mood boards that I put together to send to the Ma craft student. We have finally agreed to collaborate to make a hat for my Ma collection. I believe she is going to use resin to make the hat. The reason I asked Katie to collaborate with me is because I really liked her weaving/sewing technique that she is using for her own work. Hopefully it should all go well.